So my perfume review process works something like this: I’ll wear a new perfume on and off when I feel like it and when I think I’m ready to review it I’ll be wearing it everyday until the review is done.
I was ready to review Nuit de Tubereuse EdP [L’Artisan Parfumeur] weeks ago. I’ve been wearing it everyday for three weeks. XD Mostly because of my heatwave induced blogging pause but also because I like it so much.
As always, I have the old bottle design. The liquid is light grey, the sticker and outer packaging are pink.
Weren’t you a Tuberose phobic, you might ask. Yes, I was. And still many a famous tuberose is too heavy for me. I didn’t even dare test Nuit de Tubereuse until I read a review which critisized it for not being a tuberose perfume. Oh, I thought? Why is it called Nuit de Tubereuse, then? Looks like this was created under a different working title, but then they had to change the name in a hurry for legal reasons [I assume the working title was used by a diff brand]. So, hey, worth a sniff for the tuberose phobic.
First impression is very green but in a flowery way, not a herbal or foresty way. Then flowers, lovely flowers. And yes, here comes the dreaded tuberose; why were people complaining for a lack of tuberose? There’s plenty, at least enough to be smelling it through the whole time it lasts [about six hours]. But – it’s not cloying or oppressing. I like this tuberose, which pairs an intense flower with light greenery.
The official note list printed on the packaging reads: pink pepper, tuberose, green mango, woods.
Now, that’s a pretty short list and I bet my collection there’s more flowers in it. Surely some orange blossom + rose, not sure about jasmin or ylang ylang. I have no real clue what green mango smells like, only that it’s also a note in Timbuktu, which smells nothing like Nuit de Tubereuse. XD There are probably some types of amber and musk [what perfume doesn’t contain musk?] in the dry down. I don’t think it smells particularly woody at all.
But it smells good, so good. It smells like the first rain after a heat wave – or is that just because we are having rain right now, haha. But I bought this bottle almost a year ago [time flies] and it works all year round. I am now officially no tuberosophobic anymore. 😉
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This is one of my special bedtime treats! One spray is enough, otherwise it can get overwhelming. Pepper, spices, tuberose --rather green, orange blossom, rose and benzoin are the main notes I smell in this beauty. It stays sharp for a long time, and the drydown appears very slowly but then, ah! How soft, how creamy, velvety, and smooth! Yet still with a tinge of the potent tuberose, who is here like a headstrong girl relentlessly and powerfully wanting to noticed and taken care of --but the girl caresses and speaks softly to lure you. It is a very special fragrance to me, like the child in me wanting attention insistently. It is close to my heart, and as I write these words, I begin to understand why.
Ah, Monsieur Bertrand You think that you can distract Madame Tuberose
From her great mission Of refeminization With your silly tricks
Your fruits, your flowers Your spices and your resins But trust me, Bertrand
You cannot succeed! Estrogen's floral trumpet Cannot be silenced
By this orchestra Of diffuseful idiots No matter the tune.
Enjoyable, yes As she stole the whole show from Their useless antics
You had my dear wife Mistaking her for a fruit And the scent for men
We both know better And though I keep my bottle Know that you have failed!
Your delightful tune This tubéreuserous ruse Olfactive nonsense
Is simply no match For my dear lady's 19 Spare X chromosomes.
Au revoir, Bertrand This floral struggle session Shall not be our last!
I remember reading a story about two perfume lovers. They took a vial of Iris Silver Mist and added some peach. Drop by drop went the C14, and nothing happened, until - another drop - and suddenly there was Iris Gris, that lost fragrance by Fath. This feels like the same thing has been tried with tuberose and orange blossom, but the tipping point was never found and the result is a bit blurred.
As a sucker for tuberose, I added Nuit de Tubereuse to my wish list and waited patiently for a bottle to show up on these lands, for L'Artisan Parfumeur doesn't sell in local shops where I live and buying online would mean paying four times the retail price due to taxes and currency exchange rates. So I couldn't be more thrilled when I found a 30 ml for sale online from a fellow traveler for a very reasonable price. Having read many reviews about NdT, I thought its peppery aspect could be challenging, but believed I could get past the initial blast and enjoy the rest of the composition. Silly me. The harsh peppery opening accompanied the fragrance from top to bottom and although it lost some of its potency within the passing of time, it was still a shy tuberose lying in a pool of pepper. I tried NdT both in colder and warmer weather, but my efforts were useless. The heat would give the tuberose some room to develop, but still it wasn't enough to make me like the entire composition, which felt watery, spicy and much more masculine than feminine. So I bid NdT adieu and the bottle went straight to my son's closet. And believe me: NdT smells divine on him! I'm rating it neutral because although it didn't suit me, I can't deny that it's a nice composition.
Great longevity on this one. It's rich and full of tuberose and cardamom. It is orangey and woody. The cloves aren't overbearing. I can smell ylang ylang and angelica in the background. The resins add something to it to make it seem crunchy, for lack of a better word. I can take or leave tuberose perfumes. This one though, keeps me intrigued, smelling my skin frequently. It's a whiff of cookies baking, or maybe biscotti.
Not bad--I used my sample and largely enjoyed it. Definitely do not need to go out and buy this though. It is, of course, very floral, and can get a bit overwhelming when applied generously. But on my skin there is nothing that really differentiates it from a whole host of other Big White Floral nice-for-summer-can-get-a-bit-too-much scents.
This is one I would never have considered in the past. It's very peppery on opening and has a fruity tang that's usually a no-no for me. But, maybe it's the time of day, I'm trying this mid afternoon, and I'm loving it today! It's much spicier than I thought and not too 'sultry tropical'. Actually I think this is only the second or third time I've ever sprayed this -- it was part of a set of four or five travel sized vials I got a couple of years ago from the Artisan website. I think I sometimes get a sort of fatty rancid butter hint from heavier perfumes on initial spray and this definitely had that on last spraying [maybe I imagine it and it's time of day dependent - evening scents in the evening, morning scents in the morning...]. It mixes up the floral and the spicy very nicely. I'm even imagining something sweet and sharp like ginger - probably the pepper and cardamom. Anyway it works beautifully today
Nuit de Tuberouse: a fragrance that I will visit again and again. It melted into my skin and that first blast of peppered florals was alluring. I was instantly home in the Keys again. The whirring of the Traveller Palm as the rain begins to rouse a deeper fragrance from the drenched flora. This is a precarious blend. I feared the tuberose would be sickingly sweet and would be reminiscent of spring breaker who pollyanna'd out, avoiding the festivities. Not this girl she has been set free at last. A Pollyanarchist; young, beautiful,confident and in your face with sensuality. All the other flowers will be lost in her tropical storms
This creation struck me as odd, as I was left wondering why anyone would try to stick juicy tuberose in the middle of a desert of crisp spices, when all of a sudden it hit me - this isn't just tuberose; it's tuberose potpourri! I get a lot of the pepper and cardamom, as well as the telltale yellow-green angelica I love so much. It's all been dried up, crumbled, and dropped into a bowl. Truth be told tuberose-centric fragrances that I honestly enjoy are pretty few and far between, and not since sampling l'Arte di Gucci have I felt so highly of one. Fans of the usual floral bouquet will be taken aback here, but this sweet yet dry composition is a whole new facet in this flower's personality and a refreshing new take on the matter altogether. The fact that it has staying power far superior to that of most l'Artisan releases is a pleasant bonus.
When I find a tubereuse fragrance I love, [which happens rarely] I embrace it fully. Perhaps it is because this isn't the "chubby" tuberose [aka Carnal Flower] that I love it so very much. The spicy wood aspect of this is fantastic on my skin.
As far as "blatant accord borrowing", Nuit de Tubereuse was created by Bertrand Duchaufour as was Timbuktu & Dzongkha. How is this improper if he is putting together bits & bobs of his other creations to make something new?
I love it. It smells great on me. I get lots of compliments.
Thumbs up from me.
Genre: Floral Oriental
Bertrand Duchaufour has been venturing beyond the incense-heavy style he's been associated with in the wake of Avignon, Timbuktu, Dzongkha, Jubilation XXV, and the early releases in the Eau d'Italie line. I've been taken with some of the resultant floral compositions, including Amaranthine, Magnolia Romana, and Fleur de Liane, so it was with much pleasure that I looked forward to Nuit de Tubéreuse. I was particularly curious to see how Duchaufour would handle this most lush, heady, and voluptuous of white flowers, especially after his success with the grand tropical bouquet of Amaranthine.
I expected the treatment of tuberose to be novel, and my expectations were borne out by Nuit de Tubéreuse's dusty cardamom, pepper and angelica, which associate in an unprecedented way with the tuberose that wells up to join them. The result renders tuberose soapy rather than fleshy, and much drier and leaner than I am accustomed to. It's only after this promising introduction has had time to settle and dissipate that disappointment first sets in. The curiously dry tuberose persists as spices recede, but what slides in to replace then is a harsh, overtly chemical artificial wood note that feels like sawdust being shoved up my nose. It's an effect that's ruined many a masculine drydown for me, and while it's novel and unexpected in a white floral context, it's no more pleasant. As a background element, the pseudo-wood might have effectively reinforced the dry austerity that Duchaufour plays against his tuberose, but set to the fore, as here, it overwhelms the entire composition.
On a hopeful note, I may well be oversensitive to Nuit de Tubéreuse's woody aromachemical. In that case, less sensitive noses may not object to it here. If you enjoy tuberose or admire Duchaufour's work, I recommend trying Nuit de Tubéreuse. It's a new and interesting approach to a familiar ingredient, though your regard for it may depend on how you perceive its woody base note.
I used to live in Florida. Anyone who's spent some time there might have been present during one of the major citrus flowerings. Certain months bring the celestial fragrance of the flowers wafting in the breeze. In its natural form, orange blossom is gorgeous. It's also very easy to ruin a frag with too much. Even worse, is one of those awful, nasty fake orange blossom fragrance that makes you instantly ill. The same is true for the tuberose flower. Heavy and sweet, it can easily overpower a scent, or be bloated to artificial proportions. Furthermore, tuberose is like a beautiful alcoholic. Off the booze, she's fun to be around, but let her too close to the liquor cabinet, and she'll start knocking over tables and starting brawls. Having said that, Nuit De Tubereuse is dominated by the scent. It smells true to the flower to me, although I've only smelled it in essential oil form. Tuberose has had a drink or two this Nuit, but she hasn't lost control...barely. She's getting loud, but she's still laughing and the life of the party. Her jokes are a little off-color, not to everyone's taste. It's getting a little warm, and the guests are sweating lightly under gaudy outfits. No one can take their eyes off of her. But if you're up to it, tuberose is throwing one hell of a party here.
Full and rich it starts off, citrus, a dash of dark spice, cardamom and tuberose with a whiff of rose on the distant horizon. Ylang-ylang is present in the drydown, a wood note and some styrax in the base - overall on the lighter side; this is a very balanced warm weather day scent. Silage and projection are not great, but the longevity is superb at eight hours. A very nice tuberose creation in which much more is going on than just the tuberose.
Elegant, spicy tuberoseOn me, Nuit de Tuberose is a lovely combination of spice and creamy tuberose - which can be a bit of an odd juxtoposition, but happily works nicely on my skin. I can see how it might be redundant to those who own Dzonka and/or Timbuktu, but while I love many L'Artisan fragrances, I found both of those to be a bit too harsh/bitter on my skin, though it's probably time for me to try Dzonka again. The word that comes to mind with Nuit de Tuberose is "windblown" - It feels like I'm wearing a scent that might waft through a window or on a breeze somewhere with luscious late spring weather.
Timbuktu + Dzongkha + TuberoseNuit de Tubereuse is a combination of accords from Dzongkha & Timbuktu with tuberose added in. Take the cardamom , pink pepper and mango from Timbuktu, add to it the white tea and incense from Dzonka and finally some plastic'y tuberose. That is Nuit de Tubereuse. But tuberose is dense and concentrated. Not loud by any means but solid in structure. It's as if the tuberose essential oil was left on a Petri dish for a few days. And the dense tuberose oil that hadn't evaporated was used in Nuit de Tubereuse. Now that's not a bad thing if you don't already own either Timbuktu or Dzongkha.But , if like me, you do , then Nuit de Tubereuse feels redundant. The tuberose note in NdT does not carry the perfume alone. The two borrowed accords are as prominent, if not more prominent,than the tuberose note. A good perfume but blatant accord borrowing is frowned upon. Especially from the skilled Mr.Duchafour.Pros: ElegantCons: Redundant "
The note pyramid shown here looks pretty crowded but to me this smells, very simply, surprise surprise...like tuberose!
And it is not that obvious for a fragrance to deliver exactly what its name announces!
Whether one likes tuberose or not is another matter, but I guess one has to respect that this is a pretty genuine scent.
Now tuberose is not necessarily my favorite note, but by no means do I despise it. Fair.
Edit: I gave an unreservedly glowing review earlier, but bummer - I'm going to have to modify it. This fragrance is not to be trusted on me. When it works I still feel the love. But sometimes, it becomes sweeter on my skin, which takes away the Grrr factor a bit, becoming a little more generic, losing it's animalic edge. So, while not a Jekyll and Hyde fragrance, it's definitely a love it vs. like fragrance. When it's on I love its take on tuberose. Instead of the sparseness and acridness described by some, my skin picked up ambery, incensey tones which made an incredibly sensual match with the tuberose. I didn't get a concept frag feel, cool and aloof - this one definitely doesn't exist in my head. It feels sensual, is very much in the now and acts viscerally, no head stuff here. I got all the earthy floral, warm/dry tones. The tuberose is a revelation in this fragrance. It's earthy sensual quality really comes out with all that supporting earth and amber floating around, nothing forced, nothing strident. There's no overamperage, no downplaying, no minimalism, no big-white-floral histrionics. I appreciate the fact vanilla isn't used for the base - that would have put it in the territory of a thousand vanillic fragrances on the market today, and made it more BWF. The tuberose, ylang, mango and rose are voluptuous enough without the cheap and easy fix of vanilla and the results are more unique. The pepper, cardamon and angelica give it a dry, sparky edge which plays with the tuberose to good effect because it lightens and 'de-liquifies' the tuberose to bring it out of the earth and into the air, and gives it a less chewy, more dry, incensey quality, gives it a little 'spice', which plays well with the floral. But that sultry turberose is still there. It may be one of the airier tuberose fragrances I've tried. I think of it as an incense and tuberose fragrance, with all the sensual earthy connotation that implies When it's on, I love it!
The SA from Barney's sprayed this one me the other day, as it was a personal favorite of his, and I was very pleasantly surprised. This to me is an airy aquatic floral [albeit somewhat synthetic] that is not overwhelmingly tuberosey. To me this is very niche- L'artisany, fresh and woody, much more sparse and spacious than I would expect a tuberose scent to be. But the tuberose does peek it's petals out here and there. Sexy. Incredible tenacity. Wearable.
Oh, this one does not work for me at all. I've tried several times now, and can only come up with a collision. Creamy thick hothouse floral meets arid, dirty no mans land. It is as if all the humid air was sucked out of the hothouse, and you are left with no oxygen to breath, and no respite.
And it lasts a long time.
I recently discovered that tuberose is one of my favourite floral notes, though not always an easy one to wear. Duchaufour's take on tuberose leaves me a bit puzzled- I love its spiciness, its earthiness, its somehow metallic undertone, its fruity facets and the leanness of the flower itself, devoided of the opulence, creaminess and carnality of most tuberose scents. I find it, as most of BD fragrances, clever, cerebral and smart. But, as it also often happens with some of them, in the drydown something highly synthetic and cold arises, an aloofness that detatches the scent from my skin and make me feel it a bit… alien. In conclusion I admire it more than I like to wear it, so I give it neutral.
Sexy but subtle with decent lasting power. Since "Fracas" is too high-pitched for me, this is like the wearable version. It makes me feel like a femme fatale.
I enjoy this one and, happily, don't get the astringency some wearers complain of. It stays a peppery, spicy tuberose without the overwhelming BWF punch. A beauty!
The top notes come on with almost an assault of dry peppery astringency, before they fade to reveal a fruity-floral pinkness of tuberose very closely akin to that in Nasomatto's Narcotic Venus and Michael Kors for women. However, this is a very brief respite before a curiously dry, fizzy, almost acrid woodiness lurches forward, gaining in intensity minute-by-minute at the expense of anything floral. The flowers drowned in a woody tsunami, in fact, and at times I smelled an almost disconcerting barbecue-like quality before the drydown lead to something leaner, paler, and if possible, even more arid. It's complex and multi-faceted, but very unpleasant; odd, but not good odd.Like fragrances like Bois d'Ombrie, Sienna L'Hiver, and Dzonhka? Wish someone would marry that type of accord to a tropical floral? Then this fragrance is what you've been waiting for. If, however, you're like me, and find Bertrand Duchaufour's signature to be something akin to harsh woody vinegar, then your chances of loving Nuit are fairly remote.Points for originality and longevity, but this is not what I want on my skin.