Loewe 2023
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(Runway) Make room, Miu Miu. Estrop/Getty Images Entertainment Since taking the reins at Loewe nearly nine years ago, the brand’s creative director Jonathan Anderson has reinvigorated the label with his signature surrealist touch. Outsized sculptural shapes and edgy deconstructed silhouettes has both grown his label’s fan base and, perhaps, scared off a few less adventurous customers. But the Northern Irish designer’s latest work for the Spanish heritage house’s Spring/Summer 2023 show today struck a lovely, crowd-pleasing balance of aesthetics: conceptual and commercial. “The erotic tension and precision of the anthurium flower dominates the LOEWE Spring Summer 2023 show space at La Garde Républicaine in Paris,” teased a caption on the label’s Instagram page to a live stream of the event. In a cavernous all white space dominated by an, um, suggestive flower sculpture, models took to the runway by emerging from a square-shaped hole in the floor. Yet, while the set’s centerpiece was almost lewd in its obviousness, the clothes themselves were subtly sexy. Almost exclusively comprised of mini dresses, the line-up riffed on micro hemlines by way of exaggerated, sculpted skirts (a conceit that has also popped up at Dior and Rochas), elegantly draped styles, tunics worn sans pants, and an array of shapely tennis dresses in candy colors. Anderson also, quite brilliantly, put his own twist on the rosette trend that seems to be blooming everywhere as of late. His version? Embellishing everything from statement tops to neon slips with the striking, sultry anthurium flower accent rather than the more expected rose. In particular, look two, a crisp white mini dress with an exaggerated open bloom for its top, stands out as a summer party look for the ages... or perhaps a post-ceremony dance floor dress for the fashion-loving bride? Thierry Chesnot/Getty Images Entertainment While leg-baring dresses certainly took centerstage in today’s showing there were still a few separates worth noting: TZR’s favorites include the effortless, bell-shaped utility jackets (complete with very of-the-moment cargo pockets) and trenches, as well as a long, flowing butter yellow shirt that would look lovely atop everything from slouchy khakis (another key piece throughout the collection) to faded jeans. And although there was plenty of prettiness to enjoy throughout the line-up, Anderson still managed to squeeze in his arty, experimental touch by way of futuristic digi prints and puffed up, couture-like tops stretched to the limit under zip-front knits. In short it was a collection that leaves one with lots to think about and to actually wear IRL — truly the perfect mix. Scroll ahead for a selection of looks from the show. Thierry Chesnot/Getty Images Entertainment For the Spring/Summer 2023 season, Creative Director Jonathan Anderson envisioned the Loewe woman carved from an anthurium flower. With waxy heart-shaped petals juxtaposed alongside a single fleshy spike and green foliage, the natural design of the anthurium’s soft curves and sharp contrast was the cornerstone of Anderson’s inspiration for his latest collection. As the show opened with Loewe girl Taylor Russell in her exaggerated, velvet look. With a fresh focus on lines, color, and shape, Anderson blurs the reality of clothing in tension through playful silhouettes. Through hyper-realism, Anderson questions the reality of clothing, as a product of nature, shape-shifting it into an object of design. With a focus on allowing the audience to question the reality of clothing, as a product of nature that looks like an object of design. From shrunken pinstripe dresses that mimic the movement of a flower to cutting-edge necklines that stand off the body like a piece of art, Anderson’s subversion of realism on the runway was on point this season. The lively designs drew straight from their source with anthurium-built bodices and wrap waists. The looks were periodically interrupted with T-shirts, hoodies, and chinos featuring a pixelated glitch which appeared as though they spawned onto the runway out of the digital realm. Experimenting with texture, fabric, and proportions, Anderson knows how to make a statement of realism. Also debuting new handbags for Spring/Summer including the elevated yet elegant Paseo bag, featuring a slouchy, drawstring silhouette. The collection was also paired with the Puffer Goya bag adding volume with its array of vibrant colors. Accompanied by spike-heeled pumps, inflated pumps, and pumps surrounded by a balloon on the edge of bursting, the extravagant footwear was a statement of its own. Not to mention, a pair of balloon style, petal-embellished pumps that appear as though they’re prancing through a field of flowers. The collection brought realism with the blooming intricate details of nature. Click through to see every look from Loewe Spring/Summer 2023. |
